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Since weights will vary depending on frame size, build and other selections, here are a few examples and their weights:
- 18.5lbs: Size L, raw black carbon frame, 1 x 11, 11-42T, standard seatpost, 700C wheelset
- 19.9lbs: Size M, painted frame, 1 x 11, 11-42T, dropper seat post, 650B wheelset
- 20.0lbs: Size L, raw black carbon frame, 1 x 11, 11-46T, dropper seat post, 650B wheelset
- 2 bottle mounts in the front triangle
- 1 bottle mount below the downtube
- 1 bento mount on the top tube
- 2 bottle mounts on the fork blades
- Front and rear fender mounts (seat stay bridge included)
- Wide central clamping area on handlebar
Note: For optimum performance, load your heaviest items in a frame bag secured in the main triangle.
Max weight of rider + gear: 115kg (254lb)
If this isn’t something you’re already super comfortable with, your best option is to take your Thesis to a local professional bicycle mechanic. It’s always good to have a local mechanic on your side; you never know when you’ll need their help.
It's pretty darn easy and takes less than 90 seconds. See our video guide below:
Ordering and Customization
- Simple up/down shifting with no cross-chaining or chain-rub.
- Simpler set-up, calibration, and servicing.
- Clutch mechanism on the rear derailleur virtually eliminates chain slap/drop (a real issue on dirt).
- Cage-lock feature on SRAM's 1x rear derailleurs makes for easy swapping between wheelsets.
- The front shifter (standard on every OB1) is freed up to actuate a dropper post, making for a far more ergonomic and intuitive cockpit.
- Gearing range can be calibrated upward or downward simply by swapping in a different chainring (note: may also require re-sizing or replacing your chain).
- Less expensive up front and over the life of your bike.
As 1x11 gearing range is comparable to a typical 2x11 drivetrain, the only potential downside of 1x11 is larger jumps between cogs. We've found that most riders adjust to this almost immediately, particularly those who mountain bike (most mountain bikers ditched the front derailleur long ago).
Please note that we offer a version of the Thesis OB1 without the drivetrain as well. The OB1 is compatible with both 1x and 2x systems. Check out our Bring Your Own Drivetrain page.
Thesis OB1 Maintenance
Short answer: it’s far lower than most people think.
We created the guide below as a starting point for determining ideal tire pressures for your particular body, terrain, and riding style. Off-road, the goal is to run low enough for optimal traction and shock-absorption, but high enough to prevent rim impacts over rough terrain. On road, the goal is to minimize rolling resistance and vibration-induced fatigue.
In both cases, because more of your mass will be distributed over the rear axle, consider running your front tire 5-8% lower for improved traction and comfort.
You’ll may notice that our recommended road pressures are substantially lower than what you may be used to with traditional 23/25/28mm tubed tires. Testing has shown that such wider rim/tire combinations offer superior rolling resistance relative to narrower combos. While running pressures that are slightly lower than our recommendations can improve traction and comfort with little-to-no impact on rolling efficiency, running higher than recommended pressures will reduce efficiency along with traction and comfort.
Yes, but you’ll need a model that doesn’t interfere with the dropper’s operation. Specifically, you’ll want something small and secure that attaches to the saddle rails and not the seatpost itself, and you’ll want to make sure it doesn’t get in the way when the post is fully dropped. Other options for on-bike storage include mounting a bottle cage to the bottom of the downtube for use with a bottle-shaped storage container, mounting a bento to the top of the top tube, or mounting a handlebar bag the bar’s wide central clamping area.
Not that for larger/heavier bikepacking-style seat bags, we recommend using your standard (non-dropper) seatpost.
It is completely normal in the beginning for tubeless tires to slowly leak air while the sealant works its magic. The same thin but robust sidewalls that provide such a smooth and efficient ride also have micro-pores that need to be filled, so it is entirely normal for a bit of sealant to weep through during the sealing process.
The best course of action is to ride. The sealant will foam up as it sloshes around, and riding continuously bathes the sidewalls in sealant in a way that a quick shake and spin during assembly cannot. Just be sure to bring a pump, tube, and 6mm hex wrench (for the thru-axles) just in case, as is good practice for all of your rides.
Dial in your fit with reach adjust. Get more power and control from your SRAM brakes by adjusting them to fit your hands. The adjustment is located between the shift lever blade and the brake lever blade on the underside of the brake lever. Pull back the shift lever to access the 2.5mm hex adjustment screw. When viewed from the bottom, turn the wrench clockwise to move the lever away from the bar and turn the wrench counter-clockwise to move the lever closer to the bar. Once you have your adjustment made, check to make sure that when the brake lever is pulled firmly, it doesn’t bottom out on the handlebar, limiting your braking power.
Levers feel spongy? You may need a re-bleed. While SRAM hydraulic brakes come pre-bled from the factory, the process of cutting and resizing the hoses to route them internally through your bicycle’s frame and fork can introduce enough air to the system to affect brake performance. This is why we recommend re-bleeding each system after installation in our assembly guide. Still having issues after a re-bleed? You may still have air in the system. If the situation doesn’t improve after a few squeezes of the lever, ask your mechanic if another bleed is needed. If bleeding the system yourself, be sure to follow SRAM’s recommended bleed procedure and pay particular attention to how dissolved gasses are removed from the brake fluid (time 0:59).
For more information, check out SRAM’s Road Hydraulic Brake Tips and Tricks.
650B x 47mm, which sit almost 50mm wide on our 27.3ID rims. We’ve also run the 48mm Panaracer GravelKing SKs with no issues, though they sit ~51mm and thus have a smidge less than our 4mm of recommended clearance. Because 650Bx47mm tires have the same radius as 700Cx30mm, handling remains constant when swapping wheelsets (except, of course, for differences related to the tires themselves).
700C x 40mm. The 22ID rims are aero-optimized for 28-30mm slicks but offer a wide base of support for running higher volume tires at low pressures without inducing tire squirm. Some 42mm tires will also fit, but we’ve not yet tested them and riders on smaller frames may experience toe overlap issues. Note that clearing larger 700C tires would have required a longer/slacker geometry, thus compromising handling.
Shipping, Returns, and Warranty
Thesis is available to ship to the following countries:
- United Kingdom
- United States
Please note: all purchases are in US currency, and all customers outside the US are responsible for paying their own duties, tariffs, and customs prior to delivery.
We are exploring expansion into other countries. Send a note to firstname.lastname@example.org if you'd like to request for your country to be added to the list.
Have a question we haven’t answered yet? Send a note to email@example.com and we'll take care of you.
Introducing the OB1
One bike, every road, no compromises. It's the dream bike we built for ourselves, and we're sharing it with you.Meet the OB1